A new technique for measuring breaking wave dynamics, heights and periods

A new system for measuring breakzone locations, breaking wave height and wave periods across the surfzone from a digital video sequence. The aim of the system, called Wave Pack, is to detect the breaking wave zone and measure breaking and rebreaking wave heights and incident through infragravity wave periods, based on digital video data that is streaming from a low altitude camera, located on the investigated beach. The system circumvents the need for expensive equipment, labour intensive and complicated installation presently used in hardwired surf zone sensors and inshore waverider buoys. It is a reliable system that can supply accurate results even in extreme weather and sea conditions.